LED on same Pin as Toggle Switch, not illuminatinghow to calculate correct resistor value to use with LEDs Potentiometer and other devices?Source power with 2 V and LED with forward voltage of 2 V7-Segment Common AnodeConnecting a switch and a MOSFET to an Arduino?Multi-LED Toggle SwitchWhy adding a LED between Pin 3 and Ground causes LCD display not to show text?Getting more current through an LED arraydigitalRead not reading input pin of ESP8266-01Yellow LED got burned, green LED didn'tProblem : Trigger limit switch to stop DC motor

Are white and non-white police officers equally likely to kill black suspects?

I see my dog run

What makes Graph invariants so useful/important?

What is the meaning of "of trouble" in the following sentence?

Infinite past with a beginning?

How old can references or sources in a thesis be?

Is Social Media Science Fiction?

Can a German sentence have two subjects?

My colleague's body is amazing

What do you call something that goes against the spirit of the law, but is legal when interpreting the law to the letter?

How did the USSR manage to innovate in an environment characterized by government censorship and high bureaucracy?

What typically incentivizes a professor to change jobs to a lower ranking university?

Japan - Plan around max visa duration

Why is this code 6.5x slower with optimizations enabled?

How can the DM most effectively choose 1 out of an odd number of players to be targeted by an attack or effect?

Is there a familial term for apples and pears?

Patience, young "Padovan"

What is the command to reset a PC without deleting any files

Why is the design of haulage companies so “special”?

How can bays and straits be determined in a procedurally generated map?

How to make payment on the internet without leaving a money trail?

Why CLRS example on residual networks does not follows its formula?

Is there really no realistic way for a skeleton monster to move around without magic?

Can Medicine checks be used, with decent rolls, to completely mitigate the risk of death from ongoing damage?



LED on same Pin as Toggle Switch, not illuminating


how to calculate correct resistor value to use with LEDs Potentiometer and other devices?Source power with 2 V and LED with forward voltage of 2 V7-Segment Common AnodeConnecting a switch and a MOSFET to an Arduino?Multi-LED Toggle SwitchWhy adding a LED between Pin 3 and Ground causes LCD display not to show text?Getting more current through an LED arraydigitalRead not reading input pin of ESP8266-01Yellow LED got burned, green LED didn'tProblem : Trigger limit switch to stop DC motor













0















I am trying to do something I think should be relatively simple. I would like to read an input from a toggle switch, and have a red 5mm LED indicate the state of the switch. Rather, however, than have an input for the switch and an output for the LED (controlled by software), I'd like to put them in series on a single circuit. That is, flip the toggle and current flows from the 5v source on the Arduino Uno through an LED and to an input pin on the Arduino. (I would ultimately like to have eight such switches; I am trying to create a sort of simulated byte, with individually flippable bits controlled by toggles; this will be read by a GTK Python program, that can interpret that "byte" in different ways: as a decimal value, a hex value, an ASCII character, a color in 8-bit color space, etc).



So, I have an LED with a 200 Ohm current-limiting resistor. I also have a pull-down resistor (1k) to prevent the toggle from floating.



My results, however, have been inconsistent. Using a breadboard, I've gotten this working. But it seems very fragile, and sometimes when I rebuild the circuit on a breadboard, it doesn't work as expected. Right now, for instance, the switch seems to work, and I am reading the expected value from the Serial Monitor--but the LED is not illuminating.



I had been playing around with different values for the pull-down resistor and the current-limiting resistor. This pair (200-ohm current limiting; 1k pull down) seemed to work, but now isn't. (I have swapped out the LED; and current is passing through the LED, otherwise I wouldn't be able to read the correct pin value--I think.)



Is there something I'm not understanding? Does the position of the current limiting resistor (before/after the LED) make any difference (I assume not)? Does this seem like the correct setup for what I'm trying to achieve? More generally, should, in principle, this approach scale to 8 more toggle/LED pairs? Is there a better/smarter approach? Is there a reason why I see so few Arduino projects that put LEDs in series with an input toggle?



The breadboard looks like this:



BreadBoard Image










share|improve this question







New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

    – Jot
    3 hours ago















0















I am trying to do something I think should be relatively simple. I would like to read an input from a toggle switch, and have a red 5mm LED indicate the state of the switch. Rather, however, than have an input for the switch and an output for the LED (controlled by software), I'd like to put them in series on a single circuit. That is, flip the toggle and current flows from the 5v source on the Arduino Uno through an LED and to an input pin on the Arduino. (I would ultimately like to have eight such switches; I am trying to create a sort of simulated byte, with individually flippable bits controlled by toggles; this will be read by a GTK Python program, that can interpret that "byte" in different ways: as a decimal value, a hex value, an ASCII character, a color in 8-bit color space, etc).



So, I have an LED with a 200 Ohm current-limiting resistor. I also have a pull-down resistor (1k) to prevent the toggle from floating.



My results, however, have been inconsistent. Using a breadboard, I've gotten this working. But it seems very fragile, and sometimes when I rebuild the circuit on a breadboard, it doesn't work as expected. Right now, for instance, the switch seems to work, and I am reading the expected value from the Serial Monitor--but the LED is not illuminating.



I had been playing around with different values for the pull-down resistor and the current-limiting resistor. This pair (200-ohm current limiting; 1k pull down) seemed to work, but now isn't. (I have swapped out the LED; and current is passing through the LED, otherwise I wouldn't be able to read the correct pin value--I think.)



Is there something I'm not understanding? Does the position of the current limiting resistor (before/after the LED) make any difference (I assume not)? Does this seem like the correct setup for what I'm trying to achieve? More generally, should, in principle, this approach scale to 8 more toggle/LED pairs? Is there a better/smarter approach? Is there a reason why I see so few Arduino projects that put LEDs in series with an input toggle?



The breadboard looks like this:



BreadBoard Image










share|improve this question







New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

    – Jot
    3 hours ago













0












0








0








I am trying to do something I think should be relatively simple. I would like to read an input from a toggle switch, and have a red 5mm LED indicate the state of the switch. Rather, however, than have an input for the switch and an output for the LED (controlled by software), I'd like to put them in series on a single circuit. That is, flip the toggle and current flows from the 5v source on the Arduino Uno through an LED and to an input pin on the Arduino. (I would ultimately like to have eight such switches; I am trying to create a sort of simulated byte, with individually flippable bits controlled by toggles; this will be read by a GTK Python program, that can interpret that "byte" in different ways: as a decimal value, a hex value, an ASCII character, a color in 8-bit color space, etc).



So, I have an LED with a 200 Ohm current-limiting resistor. I also have a pull-down resistor (1k) to prevent the toggle from floating.



My results, however, have been inconsistent. Using a breadboard, I've gotten this working. But it seems very fragile, and sometimes when I rebuild the circuit on a breadboard, it doesn't work as expected. Right now, for instance, the switch seems to work, and I am reading the expected value from the Serial Monitor--but the LED is not illuminating.



I had been playing around with different values for the pull-down resistor and the current-limiting resistor. This pair (200-ohm current limiting; 1k pull down) seemed to work, but now isn't. (I have swapped out the LED; and current is passing through the LED, otherwise I wouldn't be able to read the correct pin value--I think.)



Is there something I'm not understanding? Does the position of the current limiting resistor (before/after the LED) make any difference (I assume not)? Does this seem like the correct setup for what I'm trying to achieve? More generally, should, in principle, this approach scale to 8 more toggle/LED pairs? Is there a better/smarter approach? Is there a reason why I see so few Arduino projects that put LEDs in series with an input toggle?



The breadboard looks like this:



BreadBoard Image










share|improve this question







New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I am trying to do something I think should be relatively simple. I would like to read an input from a toggle switch, and have a red 5mm LED indicate the state of the switch. Rather, however, than have an input for the switch and an output for the LED (controlled by software), I'd like to put them in series on a single circuit. That is, flip the toggle and current flows from the 5v source on the Arduino Uno through an LED and to an input pin on the Arduino. (I would ultimately like to have eight such switches; I am trying to create a sort of simulated byte, with individually flippable bits controlled by toggles; this will be read by a GTK Python program, that can interpret that "byte" in different ways: as a decimal value, a hex value, an ASCII character, a color in 8-bit color space, etc).



So, I have an LED with a 200 Ohm current-limiting resistor. I also have a pull-down resistor (1k) to prevent the toggle from floating.



My results, however, have been inconsistent. Using a breadboard, I've gotten this working. But it seems very fragile, and sometimes when I rebuild the circuit on a breadboard, it doesn't work as expected. Right now, for instance, the switch seems to work, and I am reading the expected value from the Serial Monitor--but the LED is not illuminating.



I had been playing around with different values for the pull-down resistor and the current-limiting resistor. This pair (200-ohm current limiting; 1k pull down) seemed to work, but now isn't. (I have swapped out the LED; and current is passing through the LED, otherwise I wouldn't be able to read the correct pin value--I think.)



Is there something I'm not understanding? Does the position of the current limiting resistor (before/after the LED) make any difference (I assume not)? Does this seem like the correct setup for what I'm trying to achieve? More generally, should, in principle, this approach scale to 8 more toggle/LED pairs? Is there a better/smarter approach? Is there a reason why I see so few Arduino projects that put LEDs in series with an input toggle?



The breadboard looks like this:



BreadBoard Image







arduino-uno led switch






share|improve this question







New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question







New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question






New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 6 hours ago









cforstercforster

1031




1031




New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












  • Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

    – Jot
    3 hours ago

















  • Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

    – Jot
    3 hours ago
















Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

– Jot
3 hours ago





Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

– Jot
3 hours ago










1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes


















3














LEDs have a (fairly) fixed voltage drop across them. The red LED is about 2V.



You can use that to work out the voltage at the input. You basically have a voltage divider, with your 200Ω resistor as R1, and your 1kΩ resistor as R2. The voltage drop of the diode is subtracted from Vin.



So:



Vout = (Vin - Vled) * (R2 / (R1 + R2))

= (5 - 2) * (1000 / (200 + 1000))

= 3 * (1000 / 1200)

= 3 * 0.833

= 2.5V


The ATMega328P datasheet states that a HIGH input voltage must be over 0.6*Vcc, and a LOW input voltage must be below 0.3*Vcc. That means to register a HIGH you need more than 3V. To register a LOW you need less than 1.5V.



You're between those two voltages - in the "dead zone".



The simplest way to achieve what you want is to use a douple-pole switch and keep the LED completely separate from the Arduino.






share|improve this answer























  • Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

    – cforster
    52 secs ago











Your Answer






StackExchange.ifUsing("editor", function ()
return StackExchange.using("schematics", function ()
StackExchange.schematics.init();
);
, "cicuitlab");

StackExchange.ready(function()
var channelOptions =
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "540"
;
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
createEditor();
);

else
createEditor();

);

function createEditor()
StackExchange.prepareEditor(
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader:
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
,
onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
);



);






cforster is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









draft saved

draft discarded


















StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2farduino.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f63273%2fled-on-same-pin-as-toggle-switch-not-illuminating%23new-answer', 'question_page');

);

Post as a guest















Required, but never shown

























1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes








1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









3














LEDs have a (fairly) fixed voltage drop across them. The red LED is about 2V.



You can use that to work out the voltage at the input. You basically have a voltage divider, with your 200Ω resistor as R1, and your 1kΩ resistor as R2. The voltage drop of the diode is subtracted from Vin.



So:



Vout = (Vin - Vled) * (R2 / (R1 + R2))

= (5 - 2) * (1000 / (200 + 1000))

= 3 * (1000 / 1200)

= 3 * 0.833

= 2.5V


The ATMega328P datasheet states that a HIGH input voltage must be over 0.6*Vcc, and a LOW input voltage must be below 0.3*Vcc. That means to register a HIGH you need more than 3V. To register a LOW you need less than 1.5V.



You're between those two voltages - in the "dead zone".



The simplest way to achieve what you want is to use a douple-pole switch and keep the LED completely separate from the Arduino.






share|improve this answer























  • Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

    – cforster
    52 secs ago















3














LEDs have a (fairly) fixed voltage drop across them. The red LED is about 2V.



You can use that to work out the voltage at the input. You basically have a voltage divider, with your 200Ω resistor as R1, and your 1kΩ resistor as R2. The voltage drop of the diode is subtracted from Vin.



So:



Vout = (Vin - Vled) * (R2 / (R1 + R2))

= (5 - 2) * (1000 / (200 + 1000))

= 3 * (1000 / 1200)

= 3 * 0.833

= 2.5V


The ATMega328P datasheet states that a HIGH input voltage must be over 0.6*Vcc, and a LOW input voltage must be below 0.3*Vcc. That means to register a HIGH you need more than 3V. To register a LOW you need less than 1.5V.



You're between those two voltages - in the "dead zone".



The simplest way to achieve what you want is to use a douple-pole switch and keep the LED completely separate from the Arduino.






share|improve this answer























  • Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

    – cforster
    52 secs ago













3












3








3







LEDs have a (fairly) fixed voltage drop across them. The red LED is about 2V.



You can use that to work out the voltage at the input. You basically have a voltage divider, with your 200Ω resistor as R1, and your 1kΩ resistor as R2. The voltage drop of the diode is subtracted from Vin.



So:



Vout = (Vin - Vled) * (R2 / (R1 + R2))

= (5 - 2) * (1000 / (200 + 1000))

= 3 * (1000 / 1200)

= 3 * 0.833

= 2.5V


The ATMega328P datasheet states that a HIGH input voltage must be over 0.6*Vcc, and a LOW input voltage must be below 0.3*Vcc. That means to register a HIGH you need more than 3V. To register a LOW you need less than 1.5V.



You're between those two voltages - in the "dead zone".



The simplest way to achieve what you want is to use a douple-pole switch and keep the LED completely separate from the Arduino.






share|improve this answer













LEDs have a (fairly) fixed voltage drop across them. The red LED is about 2V.



You can use that to work out the voltage at the input. You basically have a voltage divider, with your 200Ω resistor as R1, and your 1kΩ resistor as R2. The voltage drop of the diode is subtracted from Vin.



So:



Vout = (Vin - Vled) * (R2 / (R1 + R2))

= (5 - 2) * (1000 / (200 + 1000))

= 3 * (1000 / 1200)

= 3 * 0.833

= 2.5V


The ATMega328P datasheet states that a HIGH input voltage must be over 0.6*Vcc, and a LOW input voltage must be below 0.3*Vcc. That means to register a HIGH you need more than 3V. To register a LOW you need less than 1.5V.



You're between those two voltages - in the "dead zone".



The simplest way to achieve what you want is to use a douple-pole switch and keep the LED completely separate from the Arduino.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 6 hours ago









MajenkoMajenko

69.4k43277




69.4k43277












  • Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

    – cforster
    52 secs ago

















  • Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

    – cforster
    52 secs ago
















Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

– cforster
52 secs ago





Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

– cforster
52 secs ago










cforster is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









draft saved

draft discarded


















cforster is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.












cforster is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.











cforster is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.














Thanks for contributing an answer to Arduino Stack Exchange!


  • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

But avoid


  • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

  • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.

To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




draft saved


draft discarded














StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2farduino.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f63273%2fled-on-same-pin-as-toggle-switch-not-illuminating%23new-answer', 'question_page');

);

Post as a guest















Required, but never shown





















































Required, but never shown














Required, but never shown












Required, but never shown







Required, but never shown

































Required, but never shown














Required, but never shown












Required, but never shown







Required, but never shown







Popular posts from this blog

Möglingen Índice Localización Historia Demografía Referencias Enlaces externos Menú de navegación48°53′18″N 9°07′45″E / 48.888333333333, 9.129166666666748°53′18″N 9°07′45″E / 48.888333333333, 9.1291666666667Sitio web oficial Mapa de Möglingen«Gemeinden in Deutschland nach Fläche, Bevölkerung und Postleitzahl am 30.09.2016»Möglingen

Virtualbox - Configuration error: Querying “UUID” failed (VERR_CFGM_VALUE_NOT_FOUND)“VERR_SUPLIB_WORLD_WRITABLE” error when trying to installing OS in virtualboxVirtual Box Kernel errorFailed to open a seesion for the virtual machineFailed to open a session for the virtual machineUbuntu 14.04 LTS Virtualbox errorcan't use VM VirtualBoxusing virtualboxI can't run Linux-64 Bit on VirtualBoxUnable to insert the virtual optical disk (VBoxguestaddition) in virtual machine for ubuntu server in win 10VirtuaBox in Ubuntu 18.04 Issues with Win10.ISO Installation

Torre de la Isleta Índice Véase también Referencias Bibliografía Enlaces externos Menú de navegación38°25′58″N 0°23′02″O / 38.43277778, -0.3838888938°25′58″N 0°23′02″O / 38.43277778, -0.38388889Torre de la Illeta de l’Horta o Torre Saleta. Base de datos de bienes inmuebles. Patrimonio Cultural. Secretaría de Estado de CulturaFicha BIC Torre de la Illeta de l’Horta. Dirección General de Patrimonio Cultural. Generalitat ValencianaLugares de interés. Ayuntamiento del CampelloTorre de la Isleta en CastillosNet.org